A recent inspection by South Korean authorities found that clothing from popular fast-fashion brands and marketplaces is exposing consumers to dangerous cancer-linked chemicals.
What's happening?
Le Monde and Agence France-Presse jointly reported that officials in Seoul discovered multiple items from Shein, Temu, and AliExpress contained dangerously high levels of chemicals and heavy metals linked to cancers, reproductive issues — including infertility — and premature births.
The South Korean authorities tested 144 products, many of which tested positive for compounds beyond legal standards. One style of shoe from Shein had 229 times more phthalates (used as a treatment for plastics) than is permissible.
"Phthalate-based plasticizers affect reproductive functions such as sperm count reduction, and can cause infertility and even premature birth," a member of Seoul's environmental health team told AFP, adding that the International Cancer Institute counts one of the chemicals as a carcinogen.
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Another pair of sandals from Temu contained 11 times more lead than allowed, while nail polish caps from Shein had twice the amount of permissible formaldehyde. Two types of polish contained dioxane, another compound believed to cause cancer, and methanol at unapproved levels.
Why is this concerning?
South Korean official Kim Tae-hee pointed out to LeMonde with AFP that some of the products that tested positive for dangerous chemicals and heavy metals, including hats and sandals, come in direct contact with the body for long periods of time, creating a risky situation.
"Citizens should pay special attention," Kim Tae-hee said, noting that "the Seoul Metropolitan Government will continue to conduct safety tests periodically and disclose the results."
In the meantime, consumers can apply skepticism to any purchases from clothing brands that are not highly established and trusted across many years of doing business, particularly those available at cut-rate prices through relatively new online retailers based in other countries.
Of course, that does not mean this outcome will be the case whenever those criteria are met or that legacy clothing brands based in the U.S. cannot also commit such violations, but the risks have been documented to be higher in these situations in recent years.
This isn't the first time fast-fashion brands and marketplaces have come under scrutiny for worrying and dangerous practices, either.
Shein has been accused of greenwashing its environmentally damaging actions, in addition to misleading consumers about exploitative labor practices that have allegedly continued despite previous promises to improve conditions for factory workers.
Others have called out marketplaces like Temu — which gained notoriety for its "shop like a billionaire" Super Bowl commercial — for encouraging overconsumption.
According to Earth.org, more than 100 million tons of textiles end up in landfills each year. As they sit there and begin decomposing, they release heat-trapping gases like methane.
The fast-fashion sector is a big part of the problem as it influences people to consume more and more cheaply made and trend-driven items that don't have a long shelf life.
What is being done about this?
A spokesperson for Temu said in a statement to LeMonde with AFP that an internal investigation is underway to amend the issue appropriately.
"We have swiftly removed these product listings from our global marketplace and are enhancing our systems and guidance to merchants to ensure they comply with safety standards and local regulations," the Temu spokesperson explained.
A Shein spokesperson affirmed that the company works carefully to ensure its products meet safety standards. Yet, it didn't provide any further details about how the situation might be corrected, according to reporting by LeMonde with AFP.
"Our suppliers are required to comply with the controls and standards we have put in place as well as the product safety laws and regulations in the countries we operate in," Shein said.
If you're ready to break up with fast fashion, there are other ways to look stylish on a budget. Your wallet will likely thank you in the long run, too.
A burgeoning secondhand market is one such solution. Thrifters have discovered all sorts of high-quality gems at a fraction of the original price. If you don't want to go to a retail location, apps like Beni can help you maximize your savings by bringing the shop right to you.
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