Look closely at the tag on most pieces of clothing, and you're basically guaranteed to find synthetic materials made from fossil fuels.
But even as fashion brands claim they're improving sustainability and reducing pollution, they aren't moving away from these dirty materials.
What's happening?
A new report from London-based nonprofit Changing Markets found that not only is the use of petroleum-based fibers at an all-time high, it's also growing.
The worst offender was Zara's owner, Inditex, which produced over 212,000 tons of synthetic fibers in 2023. The report noted Shein failed to disclose its own production volume, and given the company's stratospheric growth, it may actually be the top offender.
Trellis reported on the findings, and Richard Wielechowski of Planet Tracker called out the hypocrisy of "a net zero-aligned industry" with an "addiction to fossil fuel-based fiber."
Addiction is the right word. Many of the brands surveyed reported using over 55% synthetic fibers, with Shein checking in at 82%.
Yet despite these realities, many of the companies still claim to be working toward a dramatic reduction of synthetic materials — what Trellis labels as "denial and doublespeak."
For example, while Hugo Boss aims to stop using polyester and polyamide by 2030, it used 143% more synthetics in 2023 than 2022, the report found.
Why are synthetic fibers so harmful?
Trellis spoke with Ken Pucker of Tufts University, who pointed out the grim irony of using toxic petroleum to charge profits. "The costs of using fossil fuel-based inputs are socialized, while the profits are privatized," he explained. "Brands reap the benefits of synthetics, and citizens bear the costs."
These costs come primarily in the form of microfiber shedding and pollution. As clothes deteriorate, tiny pieces of plastic find their way into water and soil; from there, they migrate into food sources and human bodies.
And with the apparel industry the third-biggest buyer of plastic in the world — following only packaging and construction — the report labeled the "fossil fashion" industry as "a lifeline" for Big Oil — encouraging the continuation of this toxic pattern.
What are fashion companies doing about this?
In order to address these concerns, Changing Markets made several recommendations, including establishing strict and specific reduction goals; eliminating greenwashing campaigns that mislead customers; providing transparent reporting about supply chains; devoting resources to "true circularity;" and supporting legislation to improve the industry.
As a consumer, you can do your research and only buy from companies that are actually moving away from synthetic fabric usage — or if you want to take it one step further, you can buy clothing from secondhand markets instead, keeping your dollars out of fast fashion manufacturing entirely.
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