Fast fashion company Shein has been in the news for troublesome reasons over the past several years, with allegations of greenwashing despite its environmentally damaging practices and exploitative working conditions.
Now, a new report from Public Eye suggests that a lot has stayed the same for workers after the brand promised to improve factory conditions.
What's happening?
In 2021, Swiss human rights advocacy group Public Eye released an investigation alleging that Shein abused its workers' rights with at least 75-hour weeks, pay well below a livable wage, unsafe factory conditions, and minimal time off.
As detailed by CNN, the fast fashion giant announced in December 2022 (following the release of a UK documentary alleging labor exploitation by two suppliers) that it would begin upgrading factories and working to "strengthen governance and compliance."
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However, a 2023 follow-up investigation indicates that conditions may be just as problematic. While Public Eye conducted its first investigation in the village of Nancun, it explained in the new report that "the atmosphere was too risky" to do follow-up interviews in the area.
Instead, it gathered the testimonies of 13 textile workers in Guangzhou's Panyu District in Guangdong Province, China.
"Illegal working hours and piecework wages remain a typical feature of the everyday lives of the workers interviewed," Public Eye wrote, adding that smoking bans were not enforced and fabric pieces were scattered on floors, proving to be a fire risk.
Shein told CNN that it does "not recognize many of the allegations in [the] report."
"The Public Eye report is based on a sample of 13 interviewees and, though all voices in our supply chain are important, this small sample size should be seen in the context of our comprehensive ongoing process to continually improve our supply chain," the company stated.
Why is this important?
While purchasing a trendy new item from fast fashion brands like Shein may give shoppers temporary satisfaction, the investigation is a pertinent reminder of how corporate practices and overconsumption can have a far-reaching impact beyond what may be immediately visible.
"I work every day from 8 in the morning to 10:30 at night and take one day off each month," one textile worker told Public Eye. "I can't afford any more days off because it costs too much."
The HBO documentary "Brandy Hellville & The Cult of Fast Fashion" also examined how fast fashion harms the environment, in addition to workers. For example, after clothes in the United States are discarded or donated, about 40% of them make their way to Accra, Ghana, where they are either burned or end up in the ocean, as detailed by The Wrap.
What can I do to shop more mindfully?
Knowing how to spot greenwashing can help you make spending decisions that feel good and align with your values. A savvy purchase will likely benefit your wallet and your health in the long run, too.
Fast fashion, for example, churns out cheap products with a short shelf life, meaning you'll have to shell out more money sooner for new items. Furthermore, the clothes are typically made with fabrics that contain plastics, which shed further into microplastics that can enter our food chain.
More studies are underway investigating the impact of microplastics on our health, but the particles have been linked to cancer, dementia, and reproductive issues.
Supporting eco-friendly clothing brands and shopping secondhand are two ways to help keep more clothes out of landfills and community spaces and hold corporations with damaging practices accountable.
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