Advocacy group uncovers dangerous side effects of common clothing material: 'A false solution'

An investigation from Stand.earth Research Group has uncovered a worrying connection between more than 100 major fashion brands and oil and gas fracking in Texas.

What's happening?

In December, SRG announced its findings after digging into customs data, export/import records, company 10-K filings, supplier disclosure information, and investor reports. It found that 107 fashion brands, including popular companies like Adidas, Lululemon, Zara, and Uniqlo, sourced fabric from companies that fracked oil and gas in the Permian Basin in Texas.

Moreover, only 57 of those brands have "explicit policies" to reduce or ban virgin polyester, which is derived from petroleum. Instead, many focused on boosting their use of recycled polyester from plastic bottles — a practice SRG wrote is "a false solution that still contributes to sustaining the oil and gas industry."

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Texas isn't the only region that participates in fracking, as Corporate Knights pointed out in a summary of the investigation. However, SRG explained that it zeroed in on the basin because it has the highest potential to release pollution of any "carbon bomb" worldwide.

Why is this important?

Fracking involves blasting water and chemicals into rock formations in order to extract the fuels, and this high-pressure process creates a significant risk of environmental contamination.

According to SRG, the 1.7 million fracking wells in the United States are creating a health risk for more than 12.6 million people, including by polluting crucial water sources. Unfortunately, many consumers may not realize popular fashion brands are contributing to the problem.

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"While conversations on alternatives to fracked oil and gas predominantly focus on end uses like heating or gasoline, the fashion industry is on track to become a major player in driving the expansion of fracking," SRG investigative researcher Dr. Devyani Singh said in a statement.

"Consumers often purchase apparel without knowing the connection to fracking behind the fabric — especially when brands market themselves as environmentally friendly — and this investigation puts a spotlight on the gap between what apparel companies say and what apparel companies actually do," Singh added.

SRG noted that more than 65% of garments in 2023 were made with petrochemical-derived fibers, and that percentage is expected to climb to nearly 75% by the end of the decade.

Urska Trunk, a senior campaign manager at Changing Markets Foundation, called on regulators to intervene to ensure the health of future generations.

"Upcoming legislation must urgently shift the fashion industry away from its reliance on fossil fuels and put an end to plastic-based fabrics flooding our closets, polluting our environment, and threatening our health," Trunk said in a statement shared by SRG.

Beyond supporting eco-friendly policymakers to make your voice heard on this matter, you can buy from brands whose actions align with their sustainability claims.

Purchasing clothes made entirely from natural fibers is one way to avoid toxic plastic-based fabrics. DoneGood's "ethical marketplace" is one tool that can help you find brands using sustainable materials — and even get rewarded for your value-based choices.